Eater

This Restaurateur Helped Define a Brooklyn Era: Now, He’s on to Manhattan! After all these years, what is it that pulls serial Brooklyn restaurateur, Andrew Tarlow, across the river? It turns out it’s the stunning, 2,400 square-foot space with a wood-fired oven where I Trulli resided since 1994. Rustic Italian newcomer Borgo opens for dinner, on Friday, September 27. Borgo is the first Tarlow restaurant to open in a decade since Greenpoint’s Achilles Heel. Before that, he opened Diner over 20 years ago, before Williamsburg was what it is today. He’s also behind Marlow & Sons, Roman’s, and She Wolf, along with natural wine shop, Stranger Wines. The 140-seat spot, debuts as a trattoria with a wood-burning oven, an open hearth, and a martini cart. “It’s really epic,” Tarlow says of the hearth in a walk-through. The space features two large rooms with arched entryways, along with the original I Trulli bar, and an 800-square-foot back garden. The food parallels a bit with Roman’s in Fort Greene, featuring seasonal Italian dishes and straightforward Italian mains. Yet the size of the restaurants allows the kitchen to be a bit more ambitious. “The bigger kitchen and the bigger facilities allow me to do more: It’s like the alligators grow as big as their tank kind of thing.”
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